It may seem odd for a large city with a population that is three-quarters ethnic Chinese to have a “Chinatown,” but Singapore does, on the south side of the Singapore River next to the financial district skyscrapers.  While part of it does have the crowds-and-curios trappings of a typical Chinatown, another part is becoming a gentrified historic area.  This strip of buildings, renovated to an early-1900’s style, appears near Ann Siang Hill.

Even here, Stamford Raffles played a role: soon after founding Singapore, he recommended the creation of Chinatown.  The area’s layout, and even the style of the older buildings, reflect what Chinatown looked like soon after.

A “five-foot way,” a common feature of the sidewalks in Chinatown and other older parts of Singapore.  Because of Singapore’s abundant rainfall (and because it was British East India Company policy to do so), many strips of buildings were designed with recessed ground floors, allowing space for a sidewalk covered by the upper floors.

Two-story shops, like these, were the style during Chinatown’s early days.  The twentieth century brought the three-story buildings more commonly seen today.

Some buildings in this part of Chinatown have yet to be renovated.

Along Club Street in Singapore’s Chinatown.  Many of these places were once shophouses used for trade by Chinese merchants.  Today, one is more likely to see a somewhat upscale boutique, café, or restaurant inside.

Detail of the renovation work done on one of the old two-story Chinatown shophouses on Duxton Street.

Along Duxton Street, a home complete with Chinese tilework.  Shops are located on the ground floor, with homes like this one on the one or two floors above.

Discovering a temple in a Chinatown is no surprise; discovering a major Hindu temple in the middle of a Chinatown is.  This is a detail of the gopuram (the entryway tower) atop the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, the Sri Mariamman Temple.  The figurines represent deities - some 72 altogether on this gopuram.  The temple is named for Sri Mariamman, goddess of healing.

Here’s the more expected Chinatown discovery.  This is a detail of the entryway ceiling of Thian Hock Keng (the Temple of Heavenly Bliss), the oldest Buddhist temple in Singapore.  Its initial construction started two decades after the founding of Singapore, but much of what visitors see today is far more recent: the temple underwent a major renovation in 2000, and the results are stunning.  These gilded Chinese mythological figures guard the temple entrance.

Donations for construction of the temple were given by many individuals, and this elaborate granite stone inlay on a temple wall lists many of those names.

Incense burner and altar at the Thian Hock Keng Temple.  Worship here is given to Ma Zhu Po, goddess of the sea.  The temple was first built by sailors who wanted to give thanks for a safe sea voyage to Singapore.

Tilework along the temple walls.

The main hall of the Thian Hock Keng Temple, with many more gilded carvings under the ceiling depicting stories from Chinese folklore.  The gray pillars supporting the ceiling, with intertwined dragons carved upon them, are made of granite from China.

Detail of the altar in front of the main hall of the temple.

In the foreground, an incense burner; in the background, a Buddhist altar.

Along the side halls of the Thian Hock Keng Temple.  The fierce-looking guy is Kai Zhang, a respected governor of China’s Fujian province around thirteen hundred years ago who was later worshiped as a deity.

Rooftop ornamentation representing dragons, quite different and far more colorful than that seen in China.  Besides Chinatown, Singapore has other major ethnic areas I did not get to see this trip - not to mention shopping along Orchard Road and sites outside the main city - so I have plenty to look forward to on my next trip here.